Living in the Gulf Islands I see the natural wonders surrounding me every day. I wake up to deer gingerly tip-toeing in my backyard awaiting my strawberry plants, eagles soaring over the tree tops and weekend hikes in the rainforests. The Gulf Islands' natural beauty draws thousands of people to them each year, and lots of them have paddles in hand. It has become a Mecca for kayakers due to world-class shorelines, sheltered waters and mountain vistas. In some ways, we kayakers saw its potential first, but what we did not see was how fragile portions of the Gulf Islands are and how many microenvironments exist out of the sight of human eyes. It was the latter reasons that lead to the creation of a Gulf Islands National Park Reserve in 2003.
The Reserve encompasses 16 islands and over 30 islets in an area bordered by two major urban centers, Vancouver and Victoria. Most of the park is only accessible by water and the best form of watercraft for fully appreciating the Gulf Islands is a kayak. An interactive map on the Parks Canada webpage offers in depth information about the four unique regions within the park boundaries.
There are opportunities for kayak campers in Park Reserve, however these are restricted to the bigger islands. Primitive campsites are on Cabbage Island, Isle-de-Lis (a.k.a. Rum Island), D’Arcy Island, Sydney Spit, Portland Island, and Prevost Island, as well as Beaumont campground on Pender.
The inner islands
The inner island portion of the Park Reserve consists of eight islands and some smaller islets. Camping is prohibited on these smaller islets throughout the park due to their sensitive nature. Camping is permitted on D’Arcy Island. As part of the Park Reserve, D'Arcy offers seven wilderness campsites, a pit toilet, and some lovely paddling to coves and beaches.
Sydney Spit is the next on the list of possible camping. There are nearly 30 walk-in campsites for kayakers. The inner lagoon and spit are sensitive ecological areas so please stick to designated paths. Sydney Spit is on the fly route for several species of migratory birds during the fall and spring.
Isle-de-Lis is also known as Rum Island, a name given to it during the prohibition days when it was used as a liquor stash. This tiny island offers splendid views of the San Juan Islands and Haro Strait. Be careful where you sit as Prickly Pear Cacti grow on the island. There are few designated camping pads and it is a bit of a walk from the bay to the sites, but well worth it.
Portland Island is a big draw for boaters and especially kayakers. Three lovely campgrounds and long hiking trails make Portland a perfect paddling destination. Camping is available at Shell Beach with a direct view of the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal. Princess Bay, facing Sydney Island and smaller islets, is a sheltered anchorage with plenty of camping room, though a bit wet in the off-season. Arbutus Point to the north offers nice camping under Arbutus Trees with views up Trincomali Channel and to the outer islands.
North and South Pender Island
Pender Island is divided into two sections, North and South Pender and they offer little camping opportunities, except for Beaumont with a dozen campsites and a sandy beach landing for kayaks touring the islands.
The outer islands
Saturna Island is the southern-most island acting as a border between Georgia Strait and the waters of the inner Gulf Islands. For the kayakers Saturna offers little in the way of camping possibilities as all the water accessible areas are day use only. The exception is Cabbage Island, a gem with a sandy beach, flat sheltered wilderness camping sites and a pleasant view up and down the Strait of Georgia.
You will share the calm waters with summertime boats anchored there. Cabbage, like so many other islets in the park is a nesting area for shorebirds, so please respect the residents while camping here. Other places to paddle around Saturna are the Belle Chain Islets, a great day-trip from your campsite on Cabbage. Tumbo Island, adjacent to Cabbage is a nice picnic spot but only designated for day use.
The passage between Mayne Island and Saturna Island has some swift tidal currents. I have paddled through here and enjoyed a fast ride. Timing is everything but if you are headed for Cabbage Island and want to kill some time until the tide changes, land on the sandy shores of Winter Cove and enjoy a nice hike on the loop trail.
Prevost Island
The Gulf Islands National Park Reserve lands are situated at the north and south of Prevost Island. Most of the island is privately owned and the majority of that land is still in the hands of the descendants of the man who bought the island in the 1920s, Digby De Burgh. James Bay and Shelby Point located at the northern tip of Prevost Island on Trincomali Channel are notable by the slow rise of rock at Peile Point leading into James Bay and a pebble beach. Beyond that beach is an open orchard of apple trees. James Bay offers anchorage to boaters and there is ample room for kayak campers.
Portlock Point to the south at Richardson Bay makes a good alternative stop if paddling a longer route to Ruckle Park on Salt Spring Island, or further to Portland Island. The old helicopter pad at Richardson Bay is a great spot for a snack, but watch for passing ferry traffic if paddling here.The nearby islets are sensitive protected areas and should be respected.
The Park Reserve is home to nesting shorebirds, some listed as endangered. There are important haul-outs for all manner of marine mammal such as seals and sea lions. The Gulf Islands National Park Reserve is a kayaking playground. Respect its fragility and it will be ours forever.
David Barnes - Hi I'm Dave. About Dave I live on my beloved Salt Spring Island in the Southern Gulf Islands of British Columbia, Canada with my ...
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